Having left the parched, dry deserts of Northern Peru we soon found ourselves in the verdant, rolling hills of southern Ecuador. Vilcabamba was an eco-tinted hippie hideaway and reputedly a elixir of eternal youth. A recent influx of expats were busy baking bread, building eco-communites and offering shamanic San Pedro ceremonies! We were happy lazing in hammocks, swimming and gazing at the endless rainbows on offer.
We were fortunate to be in the colonial mountain town of Cuenca for Corpus Christi. With streets of sweets it was a paradise for candy lovers, and the spectacular fireworks and live music sealed the deal . We wandered from street meat to sweet treat filling our baskets and bellies! Cuenca has a bizarre enthusiasm for all things Middle Eastern, we found shisha bars and shwarma restaurants by the dozen and lounged amidst the carpets and draped rooms in black lit bars frequented by students and backpackers. We were also in Cuenca to see the 'cabezas reducciones' or shrunken heads of the Shuar peoples of Amazonia. We crept about the wonderful (bank sponsored) museum looking for these macabre oddities and finally found the five perfectly preserved, all male heads complete with glossy hair and mustaches! It was a surreal ethnographic experience to say the least.
Following this pleasant jaunt around the Southern Highlands we headed to the 'Must See!' place in Ecuador, Baños. The name of the town was derived from its nearby proximity to volcanic hot springs. However, in Spanish 'Baños' is also a word for toilet, and I would say this is a more suitable reference for this abominable tourist trap. We were greeted by the smell of fried chicken, an onslaught of neon signs and tour agents offering tacky excursions at expensive prices. The town lacked soul and had long since been ruined by the ravages of modern living. Superficially, Baños was in a wonderful location, nestled in a valley in the shadow of an active volcano and sparkling waterfalls. The main redeeming feature of Baños was the violently erupting volcano Tungurahua which was recently featured in the international press. We hiked up a hill to take a closer look but the lava covered summit was obscured by ash and cloud. However, we were treated to an incredible audio feast of explosions and rumblings as once again mother nature made it clear who is boss! We also discovered that the tastiest snack in the world is actually just plain buttery pulped corn smothered in butter and steamed in a husk casing. Also known as a Humita in Ecuador!
We escaped Baños alive and well, but would we survive the dangers of Ecuador's capital Quito? We had heard of other travellers having problems with robberies and muggings so we arrived 'on guard!'. As usual the stories proved to be a complete exageration of the truth and we found Quito (an the aptly named tourist district named 'Gringolandia'!) quite safe to walk around. One little boy tried to pick-pocket me with a clever 'hand under the poster' trick but I caught him in the act and sent him on his way. Probably more of a threat was the altitude, the Novo Catedral and the visiting Foreign Secretary, Hilary Clinton.
First the altitude, Ecuador is the second highest capital in the world at 2,850m and walking up hills is a struggle no matter how fit you are. Secondly, our visit to the Novo cathedral was one of the most terrifying things we have done on the entire trip. This dangerous Gothic climbing frame disguised as a place of worship contained some of the most shoddy building work known to man. Lydia was picking bits of the decorative finials from the Cathedral roof off the floor and the prevalant use of rebar to hold the concrete structure together was comical. However, it was the first time that we had ever been allowed to climb to the top of a cathedral spire and the views at the top were incredible. Also the building had decorative gargoyles inspired by animals from the Galapagos Islands, including sea iguanas and tortoises. In contrast to the Novo catedral, Iglesia de La Compania de Jesus was the most opulent and finely decorated church we have ever seen. This church of 'Bling' contained an astonishing 7 tons of gold (most of which was probably old remnants from the Inca empire) with every square inch covered in gold leaf designs. Unfortunately we weren't allowed to take photos but it was over the top to say the least. Finally, Hilary Clinton was in town when we were there which meant lots of riot police patrolling the streets and traffic jams as the cavalcade snaked its way to the government buildings in the centre of the Old town. We couldn't be bothered waiting arround for a brief glimpse so we hit an ice cream stand instead and got ready for our last stop in Ecuador...
Otavalo is famed as one of the best market towns in South America and it certainly lived up to the billing. Lydia was drooling at every stand covered in finely woven textiles and quality artesania. I was more interested in the food and drink stalls so I got myself a refreshing Coco Verde. Like a true Scot I managed to check all the prices first and secure a good bargain for our blanket purchase!
After Ecuador we headed to Colombia and somewhat apprehensively on to Venezuela. But for that you will have to wait for the next instalment!
Ecuador is a small volcanic country with good people, fantastic scenery and delicious food so thumbs up from us!
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