Pisco, Lima, Trujillo and Chan Chan

After several months away it was fascinating to return to Pisco and Pisco Sin Fronteras to see the incredible amount of progress that had occurred since we left. The money we raised was spent on several new concrete floors for families previously living on dirt in the deprived community of '15th de Agosto', as well as three new community composting bathrooms. The new concrete floors and bathrooms will make a significant difference to their lives by improving hygiene and reducing sickness. It was great to see the direct result of our efforts and the warm reception we received from the families we helped was a humbling experience.

Having spent a month during our last visit, we spent a week this time catching up with old friends and helping out with some worthwhile projects. The new PSF house, complete with tool shed, bio-diesel, work area and new truck had made the PSF a hive of activity, with 70 volunteers creating a wonderful big family atmosphere. The town of Pisco was also looking much better with new cobbled pedestrian areas in the centre, new shops and less rubbish and rubble on the streets. Of course there is still much to do, so if anyone reading this blog is looking for an inspirational volunteer project in an unforgettable place, PSF is a great choice. Our last farewells were reserved for the wonderful 'cake lady' who is without doubt one of the most endearing individuals on the planet. Naturally we grabbed one last slice of her amazing chocolate before jumping on the bus to Lima...

We had a great weekend in Lima where we met up with our friends, ate lots of Ceviche and began the days clubbing at 1:30pm. It was so much fun we forgot to take any photos! By the time we got the bus to Trujillo we were completely partied out and were glad for the comfy full cama 'bed' seats (well worth the extra pennies!).

Trujillo is a wonderful tranquilo town with colourful colonial buildings and an easy going vibe. We stayed in the beach town of Huanchaco, where the fishermen still use Totora reed boats to fish amongst the waves. We were visiting primarily to see 'Chan Chan' the largest pre-columbian adobe city in the Americas. It was built by the Chimu culture around AD 850 and comprises 20 square kilometres of adobe remains, part of which has been 'restored'. We toured the museum and surrounding ´huacas´ or temples. The iconography (fish and birds) and associated sculptures and pottery provided an fascinating contrast to the Inca cultural sites.

We were also able to visit one of the most interesting archaeological excavations that we have ever had the priviledge to experience at Huaca de la Luna. This massive Moche culture adobe pyramid has been undergoing excavation for the past 15 or so years and has revealed extensive original panels of stunning coloured murals. The murals themselves are quite grisly and depict a polythesitic spirituality inhabited by knife wielding spiders (for sacrificial decapitation) and jaguar fanged octopus gods that could have been the brainchild of H.P. Lovecraft! We also got to see a few more of the ugly (but cute) hairless Peruvian dogs roaming around the site.

After a tearful farewell to our beloved Peru, it was time to follow the sunshine north and head over the border to Ecuador...