Buenos Aires and Uruguay

*WARNING - This blog entry contains graphic descriptions of seriously tasty food, do not read if hungry!


Buenos Aires, the Paris of the South, is Latin America´s undisputed capital of cool. Good food, good vibes and cultured communities contribute to making the Argentine capital one of the most liveable cities we have encountered on our travels. The people here have a laid back, easy-going charm which makes them rather endearing. When we asked our hotel receptionist if we could stay another couple of days he simply shrugged and said with a smile ´Why not?!´ No extra paper work or formalities required. There were no signs of distress after the economic meltdown in 2001. Indeed, if anything the city is thriving with lots of designer boutiques, bohemian artist quarters and a plethora of excellent markets and bookshops. We settled in with ease and ended up staying seven nights in a wonderfully affordable and charming colonial hotel, across the road from the famous 150 year old Café Tortoni.

Among the highlights were the Botanical gardens, which were fascinating for the many stray cats just as much as the vast collection of flora. We also visited the neighbourhoods of San Telmo, Recoleta and Palermo. San Telmo is one of the oldest parts of the city, dotted with Antique shops, markets and open-air Tango performances. It also contains Calle Defensa which in the early 19th Century was where the locals repelled the invading English forces by pouring boiling oil from the balconies above. In Recoleta, we wandered around the fascinating cemetery, which provides the final resting place for Argentinas´ rich and famous, including the effervescent Evita.
Best of all were the leafy streets of Palermo, whose middle class citizens are lucky enough to live amongst the finest restaurants in the world! Of the 4 steak dinners we ate that week, the most memorable was at a mouthwatering Parrillada called ´Don Julios´. We indulged in the most succulent, juicy, tender and delicious steaks we have ever had and then polished it off with a Chocolate Volcano, containing hot, gooey decadent lava and mint choc-chip glacial ice cream. As Homer would say.... mmmmmmmmm! As you can see from below, whether it be steak or beer, portions are always extremely generous. Indeed, Argentina is the most carniverous nation on earth with the average citizen consuming a whopping 68 kilos of meat a year! The local saying goes... ´In Argentina, vegetarians are for eating!´

With Uruguay just across the water, we took the Hydrofoil to Colonia del Sacremento, Uruguay´s first settlement and a UNESCO world heritage site. It was a cute, old, cobbled town with many Portuguese influences and a more quaint atmosphere than the bustling streets of Buenos Aires. Classic cars made a nice addition to the historic streets. We stayed in a lovely boutique bed and breakfast called the Posada del Angels and enjoyed a sound sleep under the watchful eye of the many decorative cherubs (or little Smittys!). We cooled off in the jellybean swimming pool and then walked along the beach for a beautiful sunset. We were also forced (against our will of course!) to experience our first Uruguayan Parrillada, as the Uruguayans are always keen to point out that their steaks are larger and more succulent!

On the way to our next destination, Punta del Diablo (Devil´s Point) we saw many happy cows grazing in the gorgeous rolling countryside (a bit like Yorkshire with palm trees!). When we arrived in Punta del Diablo we found a quaint hippies paradise of surf shacks and beach bars. We rented an A-frame cabaña next to the beach and self catered in total relaxation for a few days. The unspoilt coastline was spectacular with its secluded bays and windswept sand dunes. The water was so clear and pristine we were reminded of Paraguay´s Laguna Blanca. The pace of life here can be summed up in a word ´Tranquilo´.

Our last stop on our whirlwind tour of Uruguay was Montevideo. The capital houses 1.3 million of the country´s 3.4m residents, and is the only place in Uruguay where you might see someone get slightly agitated. We heard someone shouting on a bus and everyone around us gasped in horror. It probably made the national news! Montevideo has a lot going for it, there are some grand old buildings, huge sandwiches and a pleasant climate. The undisputed highlight however is the Mercado del Puerto, an atmospheric market housed in a 19th Century railway station, complete with station clock. The interior was buzzing with the lively chatter of locals and the smell of barbequed meat and fresh fish filled the mouthwatering air. We sat down on a couple of bar stools at a Parrillada being attended by a smiling, pork bellied man. We ordered Pescado del Dia and a Chorizo sausage. The Chorizo was spicy, meaty heaven with an unbelievably delicious salsa. We then indulged in two fillets of Sole, fresh from the sea which left us purring with satisfaction. The quality and value for money was excellent and a meal at the Mercado del Puerto was worth the trip to Uruguay alone. In fact all this talk of exquisite cuisine is making us hungry, so we are going to head to the market now for round two before we catch a bus to Patagonia.....