The Bolivian Amazon

After a blissfull and relaxing stay in the Yungas town of Coroico it was time to endure another gruelling 15 hour bus journey to the frontier Amazon town of Rurrenabaque. This is the epicentre of the eco-tourism boom which began after 3 Israeli backpackers got lost in the jungle. Two never returned and one lucky survivor named Yossi Ginsberg was rescued after finding a river. Following the harrowing journey Yossi published an account of the tradgedy which went on to become a best seller in Israel. Backpackers have been arriving ever since to see for themselves the pristine jungle environment and amazing variety of wildlife.

Our first adventure led us to the Pampas, a vast mosquito infested swamp cut through by the Yacuma river. During the dry season all the surrounding wildlife is attracted to the narrow stretch of water to quench their thirst in the searing heat. This makes it the ideal location to get up close and personal with crocodiles, alligators, pink river dolphins, capybara, monkeys, birds, turtles, piranha and anaconda.

After a three hour journey in a dug-out motorized canoe wildlife spotting we arrived at camp, a series of basic mosquito netted huts and basic cooking and washing facilities. The camps are only inhabited for part of the year as they are partly flooded during the rainy season. We were lucky to be just catching the end of the dry season in Bolivia. We didn´t expect to be greeted by the camp ´pet´, a habituated alligator who Leon ended up taking a real shine to (see attached photo!!!). I don´t think we have alligator insurance either but it was o.k. as the guide who had already lost one finger (to guess what) assured us it was no peligroso!

Our other death defying activity was swimming with Pink river dolphins (and piranhas, crocodiles, alligators and an unbeknownst number of creepy Amazon creatures and parasites!!!). I don´t know if our friend Dr. Stella would have approved...

We were alo treated to a delicious dinner of piranha after a sucessful fishing trip but the anaconda hunting proved less sucessful, we only found its shed skin. An unexpected highlight of the stay was waking up to a chorus of howler monkeys in the morning, an other worldly sound quite like no other. We aslo had a curious troop of yellow monkeys near camp to provide entertainment.

It was a fantastic tour and we enjoyed the wildlife immensely, so much so that we have booked another jungle tour (this time into the rainforest of the Madidi national park with an indigenous community) leaving on Christmas day. We will definitely not be having a white Christmas this year but it will be an unusual one to remember!

We wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!