LIMA, Peru-: Newsflash, we have already found both llamas and parachutists/paragliders in Lima, but our search to find the ultimate in aerial camelid still eludes... Staying in the verdant and flowering Miraflores we have been treated to some real Peruvian hospitality and charm. After taking in the paragliding, skateboarding and surfing action all along the coast, we headed straight for the highly regarded archaeological site of Huaca Pucllana ('puck-yanna') , a mud brick temple and pre-Inca tomb of shark and moon worshipping, human sacrificing ancient Lima people! I never knew that you could build a temple using book shelf style mud bricks interspersed with variegated triangular supports. I was very impressed with the knowledgeable staff and appreciated their Indiana Jones style outfits too!

Day two found us sampling the delights of the National drink at our hostel's Pisco Sour night, a delicious drink of grape brandy, sugar solution and egg white topped with cinnamon. The food has been absolutely excellent so far and very reasonably priced! Egged on by a couple of friends who live in Lima, we even tried some 'anticuchos piccantes' (beef heart) with a chipotle sauce. The Latin Nightlife has been highly entertaining. At a Criollo music night at Peña del Carajo in the bohemian district of Barranco we witnessed waiters, bouncers, bar staff and even the chef doing the Afro-Peruvian Samba in front of a frenzied crowd. Next it was the foreigners turn and Leon and I were dragged on stage and forced to perform a national dance of Scotland which sent the 500 or so Peruvians into hysterics. At least we won a few cervezas frios for our ceilidh dancing efforts! It was a fabulous musical evening and the insight into the Peruvian sense of humour, joy de vivre and Latin passion was well worth the minor humiliation.



Other highlights have included the Larco Museum http://www.museolarco.org with its jaw dropping gold, silver and ceramic (erotic too!) collections, all housed in a stunning bouganvillea draped Trujillo styled mansion in the the Pueblo Libre district. It houses the largest collection of Peruvian antiquities in the world, and after sitting in the stunning cafe with a empanada and a cerveza it may be the best museum I've ever been too!

When nature calls, Peru answers with abundance. So far we have been treated to soaring Andean condors, hummingbirds at sunset, pelicans scooping fish out of the Pacific, parakeets, two Peruvian hairless dogs, alpacas, llamas and tasty guinea pigs or 'cuy' (farmed for lunch!). The most interesting of all was the rare Peruvian hairless dog which had warm leathery skin and a shrivelled prune like face. Needless to say, it is not the kind of dog that wins at Crufts!



¡Traffico en Lima es muy loco! It seems to be a battle of wills between colectivos, taxis, buses, motorbikes and three wheeled pedal carts. The prize usually goes to those with the biggest cohones and the loudest staccato horn technique. However, sometimes the inevitable outcome is a near miss, scrape or crash which explains the numerous dents found all over most of Lima's vehicles. Needless to say getting around the city is very exciting! -Lydia