A River Runs Through It...

Awesomeness factor is increasing by the week as we had one of the best days of our lives last Friday. We met an extremely passionate fly-fisherwoman at a wedding in New York who just happened to live in Vancouver. Her name is Nicole and she was happy to take us out to the Vedder River, an hour East of Vancouver, to try our luck with the Pink, Coho and Sockeye Salmon runs (there are 5 different species of Salmon on the Pacific Coast: Chinook, Coho, Pink, Sockeye and Chum, as opposed to the single Atlantic Salmon type found in Scotland). We were not disappointed when we arrived, donning our waders and rubber boots. It was a beautiful day, the water was crystal clear and we could see Salmon leaping everywhere. We waded out into river and were confronted with massive schools of darting salmon. We knew the fish were fresh from the ocean as many still had sea lice on their bodies (which is a good sign as they tend to drop off after a couple of days in fresh water). We began to fish with a range of brightly coloured flys, but I soon found I was having the most success with a deadly fly called the 'Muddler', a bluey-silvery fly. The fish were so curious and couldn't resist a little nibble. Before long they were striking hard and we were having the time of our lives as we battled fish, after fish, after fish. I ended up catching 10 Salmon, all Pinks; Lydia caught 6 Pinks; and best of all, included in the untold number of Salmon Nicole caught was the catch of the day, a pristine, beautiful silvery Coho weighing at least 10 pounds. We kept 3 Salmon for the BBQ that night, needless to say, it was the freshest Salmon I have ever tasted.





The Summer days are finally beginning to fade but we have made the most of every one, including a glorious sunset at Wreck beach. This is the most notorious of all of Vancouver's beaches as it is frequented by nudist hippies and bongo players. It was like the beach scene out of the Big Lebowski, a hedonistic dream of drumming, dancing and dope. At sunset, countless revellers offered themselves to the sea and the last rays of the setting sun, whooping and hollering like only Canadians can do. We bid the Northern Hemisphere's summer farewell, but fortunately we will be hitting Spring in the Southern Hemisphere in a week's time, so no winter for us this year! Our thoughts begin to turn to Peru and the uncertainties that lie ahead. We will be torn from our comfort zone next Tuesday, but that is when the real adventure begins!


Leon.

Boats, beaches, hot springs and bears...

What glorious weather we've been treated to over the last three weeks! Now we've felt like we've had a summer, bbq and beaches included. Leon's parents were visiting British Columbia for the first time so we all knew that good weather would be key to successful trips to the Gulf Islands and Whistler. The weather did not disappoint. On Galiano Island we lounged on the beaches in Montague Harbour Provincial Park (near to the Fisher family cabin) and swam in the clear, cold sea. Riding the decaying 1970's pub bus to the Hummingbird Inn for fish and chips was a culinary highlight, as was gourmet pizza with a view to Mt. Baker at the Galiano Inn. We managed a hike into Dionisio Point Provincial Park (named after the intrepid Spanish explorer Dionisio Alcalá Galiano) as well as a hike up to Bodega ridge, with stunning views, manzanita, dragonflies and singing crickets. Assisted by Galiano's Mediterranean climate, the temperature feeling all the time like 25 degrees! A DIY nature tour with a rented power boat treated us to porpoises, seals and seabirds while we made our way to the Saturday market on Saltspring Island and a well deserved lunch at Barb's Buns. We were then treated to a tie-dyed pride parade through Ganges. It was a noisy sight to behold!

Over the next 10 days we managed a relaxing visit to Harrison Hot Springs and Whistler, BC, the main nordic venue for the Winter Olympics this coming March. We punctuated these trips with jaunts around Vancouver, to Stanley Park, False Creek, Gastown, Cypress Bowl and Granville Island. All the while the sun shined. We were delighted with the total wildlife count by the end of Leon's parents visit:

1 bear (on Whistler mountain)
2 marmots '' ''
2 pileated woodpeckers
2 raccoons
8 deer
many buzzards
many seals (including one in fresh water Harrison Lake)
many porpoises
many chipmunks
1 sea snake
1 garter snake
1 large orange caterpillar
& 10 man eating sugar cubes....

I know it sounds like a lot of hard work, but someone has to do it. Peru is starting to weigh heavily on our minds as we enjoy the last fading rays and warmth of what has been a superb Indian summer. Ciao for now!

Lydia.

Oh Canada!

The melancholy of what was left behind is replaced by the indomitable excitement about what lies ahead. We arrive in an overcast, grey Vancouver, but our disappointment with the similarity to Scotland's summer was quickly forgotten as we promptly proceeded to Whitespot to indulge in a 'legendary burger' smothered in the world famous triple-o sauce, which is O....O....O... so good! As the jet lag set in we met up with our good friends Smitty (from Aberdeen) and Chris (from Bangor). After a few drinks we headed downtown to 'Roxys', which is Vancouver's version of a combined rock club and meat market. We downed Jaegar Bombs, danced and had a great time till closing time. Then we almost got in a fight at McDonalds. We were trying to help a wheelchair-bound disabled man get into the toilets but some drunken Canadian who couldn't understand our accents thought we were trying to hinder the poor disabled man. He then threw a lame right hook at Chris which completely missed the target. After trying to reason with him he eventually went outside and we thought that was the end of that. Unfortunately, when we got outside we realised that this guy had called in the cavalry and several mean looking monsters were waiting across the street. We made a cool, sharp harp to the nearest taxi and managed to get away unscathed. So much for Canada being such a placid nation, it's probably more dodgy than Peru! Needless to say our heads were happy to hit the pillow at 4:30am. If our first day is anything to go by, this is going to be one hell of a ride!

Mamores challenge route summary

Day 1
5:30 am start, 8:00 pm finish
1.Mullach nan Coirean
2.Stob Ban
3. Sgurr a’Mhaim
4. Am Bodach
5. Stob Coire a’Chairn
6. An Gearanach

Day 2 - Unfinished Business ...
10:00 am start, 10:20pm finish
7. Na Gruagaichean
8. Binnein Mor
9. Binnean Beag
10. Sgurr Eilde Mor

Total Distance ~ 42.5km
Total Time about 27 hours!!!

Heaven and Hell - Day two of the Challenge

As the picture shows we woke up to a glorious Sunday with clear visibility and warm, dry conditions. With reinvigorated spirits and a belly full of bacon and eggs we embarked on part deux of the challenge. We managed to scale the first two peaks in four and a half hours and we enjoyed the hiking compared to the torment of the previous day. However, the skies soon darkened and became more ominous looking as we headed to the third peak. Once again we were forced to don the waterproofs as the rain increased in strength. The going became tough again and our weary legs began to wobble under the strain. Lydia began to lose heart and was tempted to call it a day, but there was no way I was stopping at eight Munros after all that hard work. We were doing this for Pisco and all we had to do was remind ourselves that for each extra Munro we did the more money we would raise. The last peaks were brutal due to their steep, rocky sides and loose scree. We took it in turns to lead and drive each other on, and as they say in Leith, "Persevere", and that's exactly what we did. Eventually we made it to the top of our last Munro at 8:10pm and we were ecstatic with our achievement. However, with the light beginning to fade we had little time to dwell on our success.


Unfortunately in our hurry to get back we took a wrong turn off the mountain and ended up descending an extremely steep, moss covered slope. That was the scariest part of the whole adventure as we knew one slip could result in injury or death and to our dismay there was no mobile phone signal. With a bit of care and help from our walking poles we managed to negotiate our way down the sheer face and were relieved to make it down to more manageable paths. Five and a half kilometers later we got back to Mamore lodge, at 10:30pm. It has never been so good to see a little Toyota Starlet and we groaned with agony as we removed boggy, soggy walking shoes from our damp, tired feet. The last obstacle was the drive back to Edinburgh through a wet and wild Glencoe. We finally returned at 1:30am. The final insult was that I had to get up again at 6am for work! Never again will we be so tired on a Monday at work, but then again, there aren't many weekends when you hike up 10 Munros!

Lost in the clouds

''......on challenges met, competitors bested, obstacles overcome. I've accomplished more than most men, and without the use of my legs.''

-The Big Lebowski

Lydia at the end of day one, six Munros climbed and 16 hours after starting at 5:40 am ... Leon may have tried very, very hard to kill me, but I have lived to tell another tale, another day. The mountain forecast (and MET Office & BBC) on Friday night was showing two sunshines, very light wind and unlimited visibility for all of Saturday! Woo hoo! The day started well enough with a beautiful sunrise, but by 7:15 am the storm clouds had gathered, the fog rolled in and the rain began falling. We spent the next 9 or so hours trying to navigate in the foggy wetness, elusive peaks drifting in and out of view. Despite having a map and GPS, we climbed the second peak twice, after Leon took us down a ridge in the direction of the West Highland Way, needless to say the conversation was non-existent for an hour or so afterwards. It was very slow going, without the slightest bit of dry ground on which to perch and make peanut butter & jam sandwiches. Today, was going to be a damn, tough, brutal, bone-chilling day!

We managed to navigate our way slowly to the 6th terrifying sheer peak, and after a night of wild camping in Glen Nevis and the prospect of injury followed by a soggy, boggy evening in damp muddy clothes, I decided to take drastic action after the 6th peak and insist we de-camp to Kinlochleven, dry out and re-fuel for the final 4 peaks on Sunday. We didn't get back to the campsite in Glen Nevis until 8:30 pm and then had to race round the Mamore range to guarantee our bed for the evening, but it was so worth it (not that we could keep our eyes open.....) The prospect of re-ascent the following day was going to be very tough indeed.... Praise be the Mamore Lodge!

The Mamores Challenge

15 Gruelling hours await.... 10 Munros (mountains over 3,000 feet), 21 miles of walking, 11,150 feet of ascent. This is the punishment we must endure to encourage our friends, family and colleagues to part with their hard-earned cash in the aid of Pisco Sin Fronteras. The car is packed (Jaffa cakes and all) training is complete (11 miles of walking each day to and from work) and the new hiking boots broken-in. The Mamores mountain range (see link below) is among the most spectacular in Scotland, located to the South West of Fort William and in the shadow of Ben Nevis, the UK's highest peak. We will drive up to our campsite in Glen Nevis tonight and then start our hike at 5am tomorrow morning. I fear the early start, tiredness and inevitable pains that will greet us with unsympathetic regularity on this challenge. However, I believe our determination and good spirits will drive us on to the finish line no matter the obstacles we face.

Thank you to all those who have generously donated to this great cause.

http://www.stevenfallon.co.uk/mamores.html