Easter Island

After a luxurious flight with LAN Chile, we touched down on the most remote island in the world. Fumbling in the dark streets of the tiny village, Hanga Roa we were picked up by a friendly local and delivered to the Minihoa campground, our home for the next six days.




Unsurprisingly, Easter Island is expensive. Groceries cost the locals at least 3 times as much as they would on the Chilean mainland and the airport is always a hive of excitement as this constitutes their main link to the outside world. The arrivals lounge is a bonanza of freight- LCD televisions, food processors and furniture, while flower necklaces are handed out the arriving tourists.





Our first couple of days of exploring saw us visiting the many Ahu´s (ceremonial platforms) of the Northern Coast. Some have been restored while others still lay toppled after the tribal warfare of the 19th century. These sites are very atmospheric in their tragedy and give a sense of the cultural self destruction that occured. This part of the island is also littered with lava caves and manavai (under or above ground lava gardens) which are still used to grow bananas, sweet potatoes and other exotic vegetables. Even the large volcanic crater at Rano Kau was used as a large, humid greenhouse. We also visited Orongo ceremonial village at Rano Kau, the site of the birdman ceremony. Representatives from each clan would race down a 300 metre cliff face, swim through shark infested rough waters to Moto Nui (the islands pictured above) and the first to return with a coveted manutara (sooty tern) egg would be crowned birdman. His clan´s family would enjoy an elevated status for the year and greater ´mana´ (life force) . We stared down the cliff in horror, next to beautiful petroglyps and wondered what kind of strange substances they were imbibing when they came up with this crazy idea! We also visited a sea cave near Orongo village that contained the only rock paintings on the island, featuring flying zoomorphic figures.







Towards the end of our stay we hired a scooter for the day. We whizzed round the coastal roads taking in archaeological site after archaeological site, but undoubtebly the star of the show was the moai ´nursery´ at Rano Raraku quarry. Hundreds of heads peek through the grassy slopes and wild flower covered crater creating the most unforgettable atmosphere. The quarry was abandoned during the calamitous upheavals so the moai now sit smiling or thinking for the day they might be liberated...








After a day of sun and rain on the scooter we visited the final site at Anakena beach. This beautiful calm bay offers warm swimming and a stunning palm fringed archaeological site. What a wonderful way to finish a monumental day of sightseeing!







On our final day we climbed the largest volcanic crater on the island, Terevaka to appreciate a 360 degree view of the island in its isolated splendour. We also took in some local polynesian culture at a dance and music night where Leon even got on stage to shake his booty with the locals!




We had a wonderful six days on this most magical of isles. The hospitality, archaeology, caving, beaches and Polynesian culture make Easter Island stand out against anything else we´ve seen in South America.

Volcan Villarrica, Parque Huerquehue and Rio Trancura

Next we headed to Pucón, Chile´s adventure capital. On arrival we were presented with a menu full of different activities to keep us occupied for the following 5 days. First of all, we took on the challenge of climbing Volcán Villarrica. At 2,847m, it was a gruelling ascent which took the best part of 5 hours. Half way up we transitioned from volcanic dirt to the windswept ice cap. We were now entering the realm of the mountaineer and we put on our crampons and learned how to use the ice axe. The dangers of such an environment soon became apparent when an unfortunate girl in a group above fell and slid uncontrollably down the ice leaving a trail of blood. Her life was saved by a group of guides who managed to be in the right place to stop her slide. It was a miracle she didn't break any bones but we imagine it will take her a long time to get over the shock. This was a timely reminder for us to concentrate on our technique and the placement of our feet rather than the incredible scenery around us. Upon reaching the summit we instantly forgot all the aches and pains of getting there as we were overcome with exhilaration and a sense of achievement. Our efforts were rewarded by a spectacular display of exploding lava, roaring from the depths of the crater. However, our stay at the top was limited by the overpowering toxic fumes, which choked the throat and burned the nostrils. We put gloves over our mouths to lessen the impact but it is certainly a smell we will never forget. On the descent, we slid down snow chutes like kids in a playpark, it was all rather surreal but certainly much quicker and less painful than going up!









Instead of resting after the volcano hike we got up early the next day and embarked on a 2 day, 40km hike through the gorgeous Huerquehue National Park. The area is famous for its Araucaria (Monkey Puzzle) forests and it feels very much like Arther Conan Doyle's 'Lost World'. Some of the trees in the park are over 2,000 years old and reach heights we thought a monkey puzzle never could. Along the trail we saw red headed woodpeckers tapping and listening for grubs and Tarantulas crawling on the forest floor.




The aquatic side of the park was equally impressive with cascading waterfalls crashing in to deep, clear pools and natural hot springs to soak our tired muscles in. At the end of the first day we reached Termas Rio Blanco which was a campsite dreams are made of. We were the only campers there and we pitched our tent right next to the steaming, hot spring. We relaxed for hours under the moon and the stars and thought that life can't possibly get much better than this!





The next day we woke up to sunshine and had another quick dip before beginning our 20km return hike. Our supplies of food were running low so we were very grateful for the tasty and nutricious piñones nuts which fell from the monkey puzzle trees. We also enjoyed great views of Volcán Villarrica in the distance with its perfect snow covered cone towering over the valley. We got back to Pucón tired but satisfied that we had seen another of Chile´s spectacular national parks.





For our last adventure we took on Class IV rapids in the nearby Rio Trancura. It was our first ever rafting trip and after donning our Power Ranger wetsuits and learning the basics we soon became an acquatic cohesive unit. The rapids were wild and threw us about in disorientating spins but it was great fun and we all enjoyed getting completely soaked. Somehow we managed to all stay aboard, except from when we all chose to dive in for a river swim!



After all these adventurous activities we are ready for a bit of chill out time in Santiago before we head to Easter Island on the 5th of May.... Bring on the stone heads!